Life in Vientiane, modest capital of Laos, flows along as languidly as does the Mekong River on the banks of which the city is situated. Resembling more a sprawling series of villages than an inter-connected urban metropolis, Vientiane is a sleepy place dotted with a mix of Laotian temples and French colonial buildings, most of them crumbling into decay. Paddy fields still dot the outlying suburbs and even intrude into the city centre in places. Downtown is characterised by narrow lanes that run off the main streets, where bakeries sell croissants alongside vendors touting noodle soup and sticky rice.
Most of the city's places of interest are concentrated in a small area in the commercial district, easy to explore on foot, between the bamboo and thatched beer gardens on the riverbank and Talaat Sao, the morning market. There are some fine Wats (temples) to visit, like Wat Si Saket, one of the city's oldest, surrounded by a lush tranquil garden. Other grand buildings are the unfinished Patuxai monument, resembling the Arc de Triomphe, and the new Chinese-financed cultural centre. The Lao Revolutionary Museum is worth a visit simply because it is a now rare example of a communist propaganda collection, while the Kaysone Phomvihane Museum is dedicated to Laos' post-war leader.
That Luang (Royal Stupa)
The Royal Stupa is a symbol of Buddhism and Lao rule and is Laos' most important religious building. The dazzling golden temple and its spire are visible from afar and locals claim that if you have not visited That Luang, you have not visited Laos. The base of the stupa has walkways and stairs connecting the different levels, designed for the faithful to climb. Each level has different architectural features pertaining to Buddhist doctrine. Worshippers stick balls of sticky rice to the walls as a mark of respect to the spirit of King Setthathirat, who built the shrine in 1566 and whose statue stands in front of the temple. The effects of the setting sun on its golden surface are stunning.
Vang Vieng
The small, laid back town of Vang Vieng is spectacularly situated on a bend of the Nam Song river, surrounded by green agricultural fields, friendly Hmong and Yao ethnic minority villages and mountains that hold fascinating limestone caves. The caves are the main attraction and several guesthouses organise guides to explore them, some combining caving with a meal in a local village, and a float down the river on huge tractor tubes. It is also possible to hire bicycles to explore the area and surrounding villages. The cave of Tham Phou Kham, set in the limestone cliff, contains a bronze Buddha inside the main cavern. To get there is part of the enjoyment, with river crossings on precarious bamboo footbridges, past rural villages and between shimmering rice fields, surrounded by exquisite scenery of fresh and vivid colours. The cave of Tham Pha Thao is for the more adventurous and involves wading through a deep subterranean stream past enormous stalactites and stalagmites. Vang Vieng is an ideal stop off point on the Vientiane-Luang Prabang route, combining shy but friendly people, a beautiful rural setting and enjoyable activities.
Xiang Khouan (Buddha Park)
The site known as Buddha Park is a bizarre collection of Buddhist and Hindu statues scattered around a riverside meadow, dominated by a gigantic reclining Buddha. Hundreds of huge concrete structures that combine Buddhist and Hindu philosophies are spread around representing a variety of deity forms. Fashioned by a purported holy man, the sculpture park was created to s
pread his beliefs and to reveal to mankind his ideas about the universe.
Address: 15 miles (24km) south of Vientiane; Transport: Bus 14 from Vientiane’s main station
